WHERE IS IT? They love their horses in the posh parts of Berkshire. The also love their exclusivity, which is why, when the chukkas are over at the Royal Berkshire Polo Club in Winkfield and Guards Club in nearby Egham, saddle-sore competitors and their supporters repair to The Cottage, down a little back road in the middle of nowhere. Not only does it cater to the passion for ponies and horsey talk, but it is the kind of place youýd never find unless you knew where to look, and even then it is cleverly diguised as a luxury car yard.

WHAT IS IT LIKE? There is a sign for The Cottage by the roadside, but you really know you are there by the dozens of Mercs, Bimmers and Jags that fill the carpark and road outside, because when they say polo round here, they are not referring to the car. And that is only fair enough, because all that bouncing around a field swinging mallets can play havoc with your backside and require the most expensively sprung post-game upholstery available. The Cottage is itself the best antidote to all that fresh air and ruddy-cheeked exercise: a comfy, low ceilinged, traditional pub decorated with polo equipment, where Bobby the jovial landlord moves about the place dispensing bonhomie to a crowd of merry, prosperous regulars, done out nicely in posh casual clothing, expensive tans and blond hair of all ages but invariably in impeccable condition.

WHAT DO THEY DRINK? The beer pumps are relatively quiet for a woody old pub with a nice fireplace. This is not due to concern about damage to the expensive transport parked outside, but to a widespread preference for the contents of the well-stocked wine cellar , particularly champagne, clearly the only booze suitable for players of the sport of kings.

Richard Brass